Rancho Luxurious

If it was good enough for John F. Kennedy and Jacqueline Bouvier on their honeymoon, San Ysidro Ranch would be just fine, I figured, for mine. Sure, the future President and his future First Lady were there more than fifty years ago (as were Laurence Olivier and Vivien Leigh, who tied the knot on the property in 1940), but I had heard nothing but raves about this almost secret hideaway tucked in the hills of Montecito, just south of Santa Barbara.

And Ty Warner, the Beanie Baby billionaire, had recently purchased the property, which first opened its doors in 1893 as way station for Franciscan monks, pumping more than $120 million into an ongoing, top to bottom renovation of this Rosewood Resort.

It’s an easy drive from Los Angeles, less than 90 minutes on a good day, with portions of the ride on the picturesque coast. And it’s only a few minutes from Santa Barbara Airport, which can handle private aircraft. The hotel sits right up against the mountains, way up above the freeway, and the drive up the hill takes you past some impressive homes, much like the approach to Hotel Bel-Air.

A guard awaits at the bottom of the property, and he notifies the front desk so a member of the friendly staff can greet you in front of the lobby. Check-in is fast and easy, and the hotel offers fresh homemade lemonade, perfectly balanced between tart and sweet, along with fresh-baked chocolate chip cookies. With such a friendly greeting, we know we’re in for a good time.

Our cottage, Lilac 2, rates as one of the best, though it’s difficult to imagine that anything here is less than fantastic. Up near the top of the property, in the middle of a group of stately old oak trees, we have the canyon for a backyard. Our spacious and private patio comes with not just a hot tub, outdoor shower and pair of chaise lounges for reading and relaxing, but also a view of a natural waterfall.

And our cottage – spacious, light filled and decorated with rustic and understated elegance -- awaits us with chocolates, a bowl of oranges and a bottle of non-alcoholic bubbly. There’s a pair of flat panel televisions, one in the bedroom and one in the living room, each paired with a DVD player, and the front office holds a small library of movies on DVD. The surprisingly powerful Bose sound system is iPod-ready, and luckily I’ve brought mine on the trip.

A small bar hold snacks from local purveyors – olives, potato chips, salsa and tortilla chips – along with bottled water, soft drinks, ground coffee and a coffee maker, all complimentary. With all of that, the various media, an oversized stone fireplace and a canopy bed, we’re in good shape for the weekend.

Small touches show the hotel’s attention to detail, which really defines luxury: tiles in the bathroom floor are heated and the loofah, wrapped in terrycloth, has a strap making it easier to hold and use, and a sprig of fresh lavender has been tucked into the handle.

Toiletries are Aqua di Parma, costly Italian imports, so we pour bath salts into the oversized tub and light the half dozen votive candles for a fragrant, candlelit bath. The bed features luxury linens and impossibly plush and squishy oversized down pillows.

It’s too cool for the swimming pool on our visit, so we content ourselves with hikes up the trails behind the property. We walk for an hour or more, encountering just one or two other hikers and one small snake. And the view back down, over the hotel and out to the ocean, is breathtaking.

Early each evening, the hotel hosts a wine and cheese reception, behind the lobby, in the shadow of a 75 foot tall Banya Banya tree, a majestic, decades-old import from Bali. As the cottages are relatively far apart and free-standing, it feels like we have the property to ourselves. So we’re almost surprised to see a number of other guests exit their cottages and wander down to meet the general manager while sipping wines, local (Stolpman Meritage blend) and otherwise (Matanzas Creek Merlot), and snack on truffled cheese, brie, crackers, nuts and raisins.

San Ysidro Ranch is home to a pair of restaurants: the casual Plough & Angel and the more formal Stone House. The latter is a lovely, intimate space for a romantic dinner. Each table holds a profusion of fresh flowers no doubt plucked on the property, and soft jazz in the background, a fire in the oversized fireplace and flickering candles add to the atmosphere. House signature dishes include a bowl of assorted olives dusted with herbs, gazpacho consommé made with vegetables fresh from the garden, spicy tortilla soup laced with crunchy shards of tortilla chips and a variety of seafood and meat entrees. The wine list features big names from around the globe, but drink locally – try a pinot noir from Melville for a memorable experience.

When we return to our room late in the evening, we find that gourmet chocolate truffles have been delivered, and bottled water sits on a silver tray bedside. Just two more lovely little touches that make this stay memorable.

Treetops Lodge

You might think it’s your stomach growling when you awaken before dawn on the first morning at Treetops Lodge to strange, urgent sounds. And it might be – the flight to New Zealand is long, and it’s a couple of hours further on once you’ve landed in Auckland.

But most likely the noises you’re hearing emanate from outside your villa, courtesy of the plentiful wildlife at this eco-luxury hotel. Wapiti (elk), buffalo and other oversized creatures could all be sources of the odd rumblings. They can sound like cows – with attitude.

It’s a long flight if you’re coming from anywhere other than Australia, but Air New Zealand’s Business Class does make it a bit more pleasant, with seats that recline fully and transform into beds at the push of a button – the way your kid’s toy can be a car one moment, an airplane the next. Duvets, a wide variety of movies, noise reduction headphones and other thoughtful touches help make the 13 hour journey from Los Angeles pass fairly quickly – well, all those amenities and a solid dose the new extended-release Ambien CR.

And any doubts about making the long trip instant vanish upon arrival at Treetops, following the short flight, drive or helicopter journey from Auckland to Rotorua, a small but charming town of 70,000, distinctive for the aroma of sulfur emanating from geothermal vents. The resort (which luckily has no such aromas) sits in the middle of 2500 acres of unspoiled 800 year old wilderness. The long drive over unpaved roads leads to the initial sign announcing Treetops, followed by several others (Keep Going, Nearly There, Just A Bit Further) that let you know you’re still on the right path.

And “there” translates dramatically to the middle of a dense forest on New Zealand’s north island. The main building, which houses the great room, breakfast room, dining room and several others, sits on a plateau cleared of trees, affording tremendous views into the valley below. Materials from the site – a variety of rocks and woods – give the place a unique look, from the lengthy ceiling beams (all from a massive, single rimu tree) to the stacked volcanic stones of the oversized fireplace, both in the great room. A 20’ waterfall and trout pond out front stretches under the building to reemerge out back, giving Treetops the feel of a plush, five star hunting lodge.

What’s truly amazing is that this was designed for a maximum of just 24 guests at any one time – housed in eight private villas, perfect for couples, and four lodge suites, better suited to families or groups traveling together. General Manager Heiko Kaiser serves as a capable host, facilitating introductions for those who want to socialize, or allowing guests who don’t to maintain their privacy.

Eco-awareness motivates many decisions here, but it’s worth noting that Treetops offers not rustic luxury, not Spartan luxury, but Five Star luxury. Guest rooms, especially the four villas, continue the lodge theme, with stone fireplaces well-stocked with kindling and firewood, and paintings of majestic creatures on the walls. And the lavish marble bathroom, with its heated floor tiles and separate whirlpool tub and glassed in shower, focuses entirely on creature comforts. Televisions come equipped with VCRs – a library of movies can be found in the lobby – and Sky satellite, which brings in favorites like CNN.

The rate plan includes breakfast and dinner, along with a pre-dinner happy hour of local wines and hors d’oeuvres; many guests choose to sit at the communal table just off the great room for the evening meal, but anyone seeking solitude or romance can be accommodated elsewhere. Chef Craig Martin incorporates local plants favored by the Maoris, the indigenous population, in his cuisine, resulting in fresh and exotic flavors. Karengo kicks up the flavor of seafood dishes, while leaves from the kawkawa tree enhance a variety of meat dishes, including venison.

Wine lovers will find an impressive list, with many of New Zealand’s top boutiques represented, along with Australia’s Penfold’s Grange in multiple vintages and, of course, Champagnes from France.

Activities abound – guests have more choices here than they could possibly realize in a week’s stay. This is truly a haven for the adventure-incline traveler. Nature hikes (guided or unguided on the property’s 43 miles of trails), kayaking on a small lake, horseback riding and rock climbing can all be arranged on property.

Beyond that, when the house is full, the Lodge brings in a variety of diversions, from a yoga instructor for early morning sessions to a wine expert from a local vineyard for an evening lecture and tasting. Late nights can be spent at a billiards table dating from the late 19th century.

A helicopter tour begins on the Lodge’s own private helipad and can take you to the crater of a nearby dormant volcano or anywhere else in the region. And further distractions can be found in town or not too far beyond – everything from golf and wine tasting to zorbing (rolling down a hill inside a giant clear plastic ball) and bungee jumping, the latter two both invented in New Zealand.

Rooms from approximately US$600 per night, including lunch and dinner. www.treetops.co.nz, info@treetops.co.nz, Tel:
 64 7 333 2066, Fax: 64 7 333 2065